Fur divides Paris fashion world - Pittsburgh Tribune-Review
Jim Borowski  |  by www.pittsburghlive.com. All rights reserved. 16.03 | 13:46
Fur divides Paris fashion world - Pittsburgh Tribune-Review

Big labels such as Jean-Paul Gaultier, Valentino or Christian Lacroix celebrated the return of fur with a selection of trimmed coats this week. "There has always been fur," Gaultier said, after rapturous applause for a long coat combing fur segments with tartan. "It's not a return, but a continuation of fur.

I'm always proposing it. Fur is a material that has not been replaced for the moment," Gaultier said at his Paris fashion week show. But other designers say women who wear mink, fox or sable coats have animals' suffering on their conscience, supporting the arguments of naked animal rights activists who tried to disrupt some fur-heavy shows this week.

"I totally disagree with any electrocuted animals on people's backs," Britain's Stella McCartney told reporters after her fur-free ready-to-wear show on Thursday, in which she presented floating woollen cardigans and cashmere tops. McCartney, the daughter of former Beatle Paul, said there were enough alternatives to fur. "We have everything.

We're using a lots of taffetas and satins and we have a lot of knitwear ...

a lot of cashmere," said the designer, who has just launched an organic skincare line. McCartney paraded out models in pink catsuits and short silk dresses, as fur-clad fashion editors in the front-row looked on. McCartney's pelt-loving colleagues make no secret of their admiration for animal skin, and retailers say it sells well.

"(Fur) is a luxury material and I know our customers will love it," Linda Fargo, senior vice president for the fashion office at luxury retailer Bergdorf Goodman, said. There's always eBay, but for less-savvy shoppers, that Web site can be surprisingly tricky to navigate. "Vintage" has become such a buzzword that unless you know exactly what you are looking for, you can spend hours scrolling through pages of spanking-new "vintage inspired" geegaws -- and end up with something you could have bought at Target for a lot less.

That in mind, eBay's staggering selection certainly makes it worth a stop. Here are a few other good sites.

  • Many women find handbags easier to buy online than clothes, and the has hundreds of bags at a wide range of prices.

    The site stocks almost any style you can imagine and some you probably didn't know existed. Top picks include tidy stamped-leather satchels, mod Lucite cases and fanciful beaded clutches from the 1920s.

  • carries tough-to-find designer clothes by the likes of Stephen Sprouse, Ossie Clark and Zandra Rhodes, plus bags and shoes from such pricey purveyors as Hermes, Gucci and Bottega Veneta.

    The offerings may be limited, but fashion insiders are likely to covet every piece.

  • is an easy-to-navigate site that peddles clothing and accessories from vintage dealers across the country. You can search by item, designer, dealer or decade, and prices are generally reasonable: Even Victorian silk jackets and art deco necklaces are often available for less than $100.

  • If you're serious about vintage, visit . Its impressive array of collector-grade pieces dates to the 18th century, including Colonial-era gowns crafted from silk damask and dazzling hand-beaded flapper dresses. Yes, prices are astronomical, but there's vintage and then there's vintage.

    Glimpsing the latter from time to time can be truly inspiring, no matter what your budget. Designers are pushing nature-inspired styles that are environmentally friendly and socially responsible. Think clothes made from pesticide-free cotton and produced under humane working conditions.

    Among the fashionable looks are a $430 silk dress with wicker detail from Cynthia Rowley, a Jimmy Choo clutch with wooden beads appliqued on suede for $1,495, and a $10,000 shell- and-diamond cuff bracelet from jeweler John Hardy. Retailers like Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman have added such clothing, footwear, accessories and jewelry. Barneys New York said today it is adding such goods to its 17 stores and is planning an environmentally themed Christmas promotion with Rudolph the Recycled Reindeer as a mascot.

    The lower-priced H M chain will introduce its first full organic cotton clothing line in March. Linda Loudermilk, known for her ecological designs, staged a fall fashion show in New York on Feb. 1 that included evening gowns made of hemp satin and reclaimed faux fur.

    The technology used to incorporate new textiles like bamboo in fashion has improved. In turn, designers have made these clothes and accessories more chic, fueling demand from fashionistas. "There is no question that there is an enormous opportunity," Bloomingdale's Chairman Michael Gould said.

    "People are developing an affinity for companies that can talk in a meaningful way about being friendly to the environment. But you can't give up quality, fashion and newness." A tangerine tie-dye clutch with a rhinestone closure.

    A snow-white ski hobo bag with fur trim. A royal blue python satchel. The 65-year-old maker of sturdy leather purses is pushing into fashionable designer territory, going up against the likes of Louis Vuitton, Prada and Gucci in the race to tap into women's insatiable appetite for chic handbags.

    Just a decade ago, it would have been difficult to imagine such audacity from the old-fashioned company that relied on descendants of George Washington, J.P. Morgan, Mark Twain and other famous Americans to advertise its bags.

    But since spinning off from Sara Lee Corp. in 2000, Coach Inc. has found new life as a fashion icon.

    "We went through a metamorphosis from a house of leather goods to a lifestyle brand," said Lew Frankfort, a 28-year company veteran and Coach's chairman and chief executive since 1995. Now, Coach is testing the limits of its cachet. Late last year the company unveiled its highest-priced line to date, called Legacy, with some bags approaching $1,000.

    Coach plans to open two freestanding Legacy stores, in New York and Los Angeles, this fall. Coach is aiming high at a time of plentiful designer competition. Mulberry, the British leather-goods house, is in the midst of a retail expansion in the United States, and Lambertson Truex, New York's hottest new luxury house, is rolling out its first freestanding stores and starting an aggressive expansion under new owner Samsonite, the world's largest luggagemaker.

    "It's very dicey," said Allen Adamson, managing director of Landor Associates. "In luxury brands, you can go down, but it's very hard to move a brand up." But Coach has been doing just that: It has been steadily testing higher-priced goods, rolling out more stores and unveiling new products every month.

    The strategy has fueled profit growth of 30 percent each quarter for the past five years and 20-fold rise in its stock price since the 2000 initial public offering. Since July, Coach stock has risen 80 percent, to $47.

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    Keywords: New York, Bergdorf Goodman
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