Chichicastenango translates to "place of the nettles" but a more apt description would be "place of the bargains."
The market in this Guatemalan mountain village is considered one of the most spectacular in the Americas. Every Sunday and Thursday, hundreds of farmers, weavers, wood-carvers and artisans arrive from all over the country to sell their wares.

The market becomes a sensory feast that lures tourists willing to endure a rattling bus ride on hairpin curves through the mountains of western Guatemala. Despite popular myths and Mel Gibson, the Maya have not disappeared. They can be found at the market in the pre-Columbian village.

Vendors here represent some of the 20 Maya tribes in Guatemala. Many wear flamboyant native costumes known as "traje." These differ from one village to the next.

Women's dresses, known as huipiles, are intricately designed; they mark a woman's social and marital status, as well as her village history.
Chichi -- as the locals refer to it -- has been a marketplace since the area was first settled by the Cakchiquel Maya in AD 1200. The Quiche Maya took over 270 years later and have remained in the area, outlasting invasions by the Aztecs, Spanish conquistadors, Franciscans and today's tourists.

With its close proximity to the tourist playgrounds of Antigua and Lake Atitlan, northwestern Chichi has become part of what has been dubbed the gringo triangle. Yet it remains the cultural and religious centre for the Highland Maya, many of whom perform their pre-Hispanic ceremonies at the 500-year-old Santo Tomas church. Use the side entrance if you want to visit the church -- only those blessed by the elders are allowed on the steps.

And put your camera away. In general, the Maya don't like to be photographed, and you'll be tossed out on your ear if you are caught taking pictures of the devout.
On market days, most visitors worship at the temple of "tipica" -- the Spanish term for handmade Indian crafts.

The excitement begins the day before as people start arriving and fan out through the cobblestone streets to set up their booths and stands. Accompanied by fireworks and loud music, preparations continue through the night and into the early daylight hours. Nobody sleeps the night before market.

Early morning is the best time to explore, before the streets become clogged with bargain hunters. On Sundays, religious processions led by the powerful confradia -- the Mayan religious fraternity -- can cause serious traffic jams.
Although it appears to be a labyrinth, the market is actually highly organized.

Vendors of similar goods are clustered in one area. Flower and incense vendors are at the foot of the church, fruit and vegetable sellers behind the main plaza and in the indoor market. In the centre are the comedores (small eateries) and booths selling everything from machetes to chickens.

Like any popular market, there is plenty of trash amid the treasures. Be patient with the beaded jewelry, and you can find exquisite purses, necklaces and bracelets. Textiles are by far the best bargains.

There are countless blankets, scarves, purses, ponchos, hammocks, table settings, shawls, dresses, shirts, carpets, tapestries and wall hangings; all woven with traditional patterns in a kaleidoscope of colours.