Fired up for farmers

PITTSFIELD Big brand food labels may be quickly available and convenient, but they're missing one key ingredient: a "food story," according to Dan Barber. "The more we have a food story, the better the food tastes. It's what these big food chains cannot provide.

They're the big empty," said the well-known chef and co-owner of the Blue Hill at Stone Barns restaurants, based in Manhattan and Pocantico Hills, N.Y. Barber is also one of the dozens of chefs and restaurant owners that invests in members of Berkshire Grown, a community-based organization that has supported local farms and the growth and sale of local farm products since 1985.

"You have a tool, a power that regular (corporate food) chains don't have. You can connect and

create stories and get people to think more than about price. You can get people excited," said Barber.

Stanton started farming six years ago with a flock of 25 chickens on a 10-acre farm. Now, thanks in part to Barber, he works on 135 acres, and expects to sell 1,500 to 2,000 chickens to restaurants this year. He also produces products from raising pigs, turkeys, cows and horses, and spends a lot of time working with Barber and his restaurant staff to teach them about his trade and his approach to farming.

"When (you have people) that want to know about everything that's going on here, it really fires me up. It keeps our spark alive," said Stanton. According to a Berkshire Grown report, more than 10,000 farm acres in the Berkshires have been lost in the last decade.

Berkshire Grown has a network of 94 farms and growers and 78 buyers in this season's directory. And the group's board members said they hope to expand with new members after yesterday's event. Laura Meister of Farm Girl Farm in North Egremont is a fairly new farmer to the area.

She said networking through Berkshire Grown is more user-friendly. "You know that (buyers) are invested in buying local, so you don't have to worry about calling or being intimidated," she said. "More restaurants get to see more farmers here.

It's a valuable tool," said Peter Platt, longtime chef and owner of The Old Inn on the Green in New Marlborough. Martin Stosick of Markristo Farm in Hillsdale, N.Y.

, who sells to businesses like Canyon Ranch and Kripalu, agreed. He noted that a group like Berkshire Grown is not only helpful but is also fulfilling. "It's just really nice to see where your food is going, and it's a lot more fun," he said.