The mini with many possibilities: Wear it as a tunic, or short and sexy

The phrase "voluminous minidress" is enough to put most women on edge, but there are even more intimidating words for one of spring's top fashion trends.

How about "trapeze," "tent" or even "sack?"
Yes, those descriptions are scary, no question about it. But the dresses actually offer real possibilities, including the prospect of one item single-handedly updating your wardrobe.

So study the vocabulary, try on a few looks and learn to love the dress -- it's not likely to go away.
This is at least the second year in a row (four whole fashion cycles!) that dresses are at the top of the must-have list.

Francisco Costa, creative director for Calvin Klein Collection, says the 2000s are becoming the decade of the dress, much like the 1980s were for power suits.
"A woman has less time now. When she's shopping, a dress is one piece to shop for.

When you go to put it on, you zip it up and you're done," Costa said.
Costa contributed to the trend, offering a slew of short shifts and sheaths. The minimalism that is inherent to both Costa and the Calvin Klein label are a complement to the overall shift to a less fussy look from handicrafted bohemian styles.

Designer Anna Sui says this season's "it" dress is built upon a very simple premise.
"It's really a giant T-shirt that's dressier, prettier and a little more feminine," said Sui, who has made flirty frocks her signature look. On this day she's wearing a black-and-white one with over-the-knee boots and chunky black-and-white jewelry.

"A lot of women are discovering the ease of it. You can pop it on, wear it with jeans, belt it or pop a sweater over it," Sui said.

Sui hit on the key to carrying off the look: Dresses are part of an outfit -- and that can mean layers, legwear, footwear and belts.

Those are the tools that can take a dress from runway to reality.
Donna Wolff, operating vice president and divisional merchandise manager of dresses, coats and swimwear at Bloomingdale's, is turning 41 and just bought herself a sleeveless turtleneck sweater dress by Laundry by Shelli Segal. She wears it with a long-sleeve T-shirt and skinny black pants.

"I feel hip and fresh in it," she said. "I'm not too old for this look."
Wolff says hers is a pared-down A-line versus a trapeze.

And, she adds, there are a lot of other silhouettes out there -- including shirtdresses and empire-waist Grecian looks -- it's just that the trapeze captured all the headlines.
Length also is a big part of the story.
"You see some dresses that are so short, you think people must be wearing it as a top.

But there was a short dress on 'American Idol' two weeks ago with blue mirrored paillettes. It was by BCBG," recalled Wolff. "I'd wear that look with jeans.

About three or four years ago, we started showing a layered look. Now the customer is used to it and they get it."
It's a similar situation at Saks Fifth Avenue, which tried to balance the mini trend with what the core customer feels comfortable with -- usually a hem just above the knee, said senior fashion director Michael Fink.

He envisions a lot of women treating dresses as a tunic top for spring.
And don't forget to add the ballet flats, the hottest shoes around.
If you don't like the trapeze, check out the lantern dress, which has wide straps, hangs full from the bust and comes in slightly at the knee.

"That's a great dress because you can layer a sweater or T-shirt under it, you can belt it and still get that nice tulip-shape skirt," Vogue fashion news director Sally Singer said. "At the very least, it covers the bra strap."
It's the dress that should replace the now-outdated jumper in your closet, she says.

Also hot are mod-style shift dresses, recently popularized by "Factory Girl," the Edie Sedgwick biopic starring fashion darling Sienna Miller.
What's nice about the mod look is that leggings or tights are a natural match, making the dresses more wearable for women who need to move around throughout the day, says Stacey Bendet, designer and owner of Alice + Olivia. As the weather warms, simply wear lighter-weight legwear -- it's not as if people stop wearing pants completely in the summer.

The look has staying power, Bendet says, because it's stylish and practical -- the best of both worlds.
Singer, however, thinks the popularity of the Sedgwick styles will start to wane soon. "I'd say avoid the '60s mini unless you are 'that girl.

' Instead, think of using dresses as an easy way to get dressed," she said. "I'm finding it harder and harder to find the right skirt to go with the right shirt with the right accessory. If you have the right dress and belt, you're over.

"
You may need to spend some time in the fitting room figuring out which shape flatters you.
If you're wearing a full dress, belt it around the waist to keep the overall silhouette from looking too clunky, says Michael Fink, senior fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue.
Designer Anna Sui recommends wearing a higher neckline and three-quarterlength sleeves or no sleeves at all, so a blouse or T-shirt can comfortably fit underneath.

This is especially important with short dresses; bareness on the top
is a no-no for minis, she says.
A white dress with graphic prints or color blocking would be a very up-to-date look, even though it references the 1960s. Bloomingdale's exec Donna Wolff says the influence of the Edie Sedgwick movie, "Factory Girl," is to thank for that.

"The movie kind of came and went," she said, "but the fashion stayed with us.

Keywords: Factory Girl, Saks Fifth, Fifth Avenue, Edie Sedgwick, Anna Sui, Saks Fifth Avenue, Calvin Klein, Donna Wolff, Michael Fink

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